If when driving on your car does not suit you noise level in the cabin, which does not allow you to talk with a normal tone or you hear constant syligations and engine noise, then you will need noise insulation. This is a set of measures that are to use noise absorbing, vibrating absorbing and other materials to achieve an optimal acoustic effect. Fortunately, the noise insulation of the car does not have such a problem. Let's figure it out in more detail.

General provisions and information

Especially acute is the issue of insufficient insulation of the cabin on vehicles domestic production. A bright this example will serve cars VAZ. Although some overseas production machines cannot boast good noise insulation. If, while driving, you are discomfort, which is associated with an elevated level of noise from the engine and the environment, then it is worth thinking about the so-called "Shumkov". In principle, no special knowledge and skills will be required of you, but remember that in one or two days everything will not work. A minimum of this will leave the week, and even more. It is advisable to perform work in the summer outdoors, a little later you will understand why. It is worth drawing your attention and that the noise insulation of the car (with their own hands) implies work not only with the bottom of the vehicle, but also with the trunk, doors, an engine compartment and in some cases with a roof. You are probably interested in the question of what to start. Now we will answer it.

Selection of material

Agree before starting work, you must choose the appropriate option. As practice shows, for the beginner it is a dense forest. However, in fact, not everything is so bad as you might think. First, pay attention to the vibrating absorbing materials. They are needed to eliminate structural noise, which extends to the parts of the body TC. All metal parts in priority need to be processed. The absorption of vibration is carried out due to the emerging inner friction, which is converted to heat. Remember: The higher the mechanical loss coefficient, the better. Today you can find the following materials:

• Bimast based on bitumen and mastic. There are three-set standards - standard, super and bombs. Thickness from 3 to 4 mm.
• "Vibroplast" is quite plastic material, self-adhesive. Thickness from 1.5 to 2.3 mm with a specific weight of 3.5 and 3.8 kg per square meter.

These are very high-quality and efficient materials for car noise insulation. Pay attention to weight - than it is less, the better. But it is only from the point of view of additional load on the car.

Sound-absorbing and soundproofing materials

The first group is needed directly to absorb noise that spreads through the air. The closer the material is placed, the better the effect will be. The essence of the method is that, passing through the borders of the air-material-air, the noise becomes much quieter and in the end disappears completely. In addition, such a material performs an additional function of the heat insulator. The most famous and popular options are the emphasis (based on foamed polyethylene) and isoton (foamed polyurethane).

Soundproofing materials are needed for complete or partial insulation of the interior of air noise. If you can say so, then this is a kind of barrier that does not give the sound further. As a rule, put on top of the vibropolotor, which gives a good effect. Today there is the possibility of choosing from "vibroton", "barrier" and "splang". After we reviewed the basic materials for car noise insulation, let's go further.

Stage first: work with car doors

Often all works start with doors. As a rule, it is in them there are acoustic agents. If the hull does not have due noise insulation, then the sound quality of the speaker will be insufficient. To begin with, it is necessary to disassemble the doors, clean and degrease. Next, you need to glue them with vibrating absorbing, and from above the noise absorbing material. In most cases, it makes sense to start with the panels. If you manage to attach about 70-80% of the door surface, then consider that you have achieved good results. At the same time, do not forget that the bands need to put the brass. To perform work, you will need "vibroplast" or "bimst", as well as "Splin" or "focus". But on this, the noise insulation of the doors of the car is not completed. We need to handle another important part.

Stage Second: Frame Processing

Here you can go a few ways: Put the window frame windows or not, solve you. Of course, if you put them on, then the result will be better, but it is not always possible. For these purposes, the aluminum foil "Wiek" is best suited, which should be correctly carved. It is advisable to leave about 2-4 cm around the perimeter. As a result, you will receive one surface. Do not forget that during the fulfillment of work it is extremely important to ensure the work of all cables and treagors. Otherwise, the door will have to re-disassemble and perform these works. The resulting surface, and it should be monolithic, it is desirable to be saved by a vibrating roller. The same "vibroplast" or "bimst" can be used. If necessary, process the trim. It is advisable to use sealant or special glue to handle the joints. In principle, on this noise insulation of the doors of the car is completed. Let's go further.

Noise insulation of the car with your own hands: process the floor

If the "vibroplast" m1 can be used for door processing, which is extremely light and plastic, it is not recommended to use it on the floor. The fact is that such isolation may not give proper result, because this part is problematic. The heavy and hard "bimater" is more suitable. In any case, it is advisable to lay the material in critical sites, publishing the most noise. But if you decide not to do this, then the technology will be much different.

You need to cut a piece of material, if necessary, heat a little and put on the right place. Do not forget about forming, that is, careful laying. In this case, the protective coating of the brilliant color is not needed. Protection is removed only after the "bimst" will adopt the necessary form. If the vibropolotor is desirable to process approximately 70% of the area, then sound insulation, if possible, placed all over the area. It can be said that the noise insulation of the car is almost finished, there are still a few more points.

Treatment of trunk and hood

In the case of the trunk, where the subwoofer is installed, it will take exactly the same noise insulation, as in the case of the floor vehicle. Wheel arches, as well as the floor are paired by "vibroplast", and on top can be "accent". But the side surfaces are desirable to process the same as the panels of the doors. If the subwoofer is mounted on the rear shelf, then it is necessary to ensure its monolithium and add stiffness to eliminate all sorts of bounce and noise.

As for the processing of the boost space, then much more easier to the owners of VAZ cars. It is determined by the fact that the places there are enough to raise. Usually, all work is reduced to the fact that the hood is covered with "vibroplast", and on top of it "isotone". In principle, no problem is no problem, the main thing is that the main thing is for patience. Well, let's talk a little about the rates.

Noise insulation of a car: materials, prices and something else

Of course, for many, it is an acute question of value. It should be understood that the price of material depends on its characteristics. The greater the layer and the proportion, the purchase will cost more. If you are looking for a budget optionYou can look at the noisefo. Such a vibration-absorbing material will cost about 80-100 rubles per sheet. Its size is 37x27 cm. At the same time, the "vibroplast" M1 will cost approximately 400 rubles per sheet. One sheet has several large sizes of the above-described version - 53x75 cm. "Bimast" is still slightly more expensive, about 500 rubles per sheet with the same dimensions as the "vibroplast". The main thing is that you already know how the car noise isolation is performed. Materials, prices for which we have considered a little can be bought in specialized stores. Nevertheless, many motorists suggest that they made purchases in construction centers. Reviews indicate that it is possible to save about 30-45% of funds, and the result is no worse. Therefore, we can say that the best car soundproofing for everyone has its own, it is not necessary to buy expensive materials.

Conclusion

As you can see, there is nothing complicated. For example, the insulation of the car VAZ can take you for a few days depending on which complex of work you are going to perform. The bottom, for example, is desirable to smear the mastic, there should be two layers in priority. Of course, only this will take 1-2 days, as the surface should have time to dry. If the car is on the street, the mastic will dry slightly. At the same time, the arches noise insulation will not take more than two hours. In any case, it is desirable to gain patience and just try to do everything on conscience, as you just need it. In principle, this can be finished with a story on this topic.

Nothing is eternally, even noise insulation expensive cars. The material loses its properties, wears and destroys, the process is accelerating during the operation of the machine in heavy conditions. Vibration has the greatest impact on the damage to the material. Over time, noise increases in the car, it becomes difficult to talk. Noise and vibration are harmful to the body. To protect against unpleasant sounds, impose insulating material. Noise insulation of the car with your own hands is an easy, but time-consuming task, this article will help to deal with it.

Work on the noise insulation of the car do it yourself

Why in a car noisy, what reasons?

The more kilometers the car drove and worse the condition of the road canal, the faster wear comes. Through the damage in the material, the sound is selected, and as further destruction, the noise is enhanced.

The car becomes noisy for several reasons:

• there is a platoon in the case. Even with the health of the protective casing, the sound penetrates into the salon. More often damage observed in the body and in isolation;
• wear noise insulating material. It is designed for a long service life, but often collapsed when carrying out any repair work or is rubbed in high-loaded places;
• disorded isolation integrity. The material loses some of the properties in the places of bends and pressure of heavy items, which is thickened and misses noise;
• malfunction of auto aggregates. The reasons are the most diverse.

To create high-quality absorption noise, laying 3 of the main materials will be required:

• Vibration insulating. The role of the first layer is reduced to a decrease in noise due to vibration. Vibration strikes inevitably lead to the rattling of the elements of the cabin and luggage. The appearance of the hum is felt when the oscillation frequency is reached more than 20 Hz. The bitumen layer is often used. The dependence of the absorption of vibration from the density of bitumen and the thickness of its layer is observed. Processing the case should be completely.
• Noise isolation. It is a soft sheet material. A few layers are always used in the composition, one of them is a foil designed to maintain heat. Material has an increased porosity to absorb sound.
• AntiCrip. It is a cloth that is glued at the joints and ends to the car. Used to complete the car by plastic elements to prevent rattling at the fastening point with the case. Performs strip function.

Powerful vibration insulation Butiplast F4

Sign quality car "This is silence in the cabin, the car owners are aware of this, so the car's noise insulation with their own hands is in demand. An independent performance of work is the least costly procedure, and in efficiency is not inferior to the service center. A hundred will have to pay for the diagnosis, inspection, analysis, installation of material and picking parts. Many service centers refuse to work with materials from a cheap or even average price category, forcing the client to buy costly noise insulation.

Question: "How to make a car noise insulation?" - It is quite appropriate, since the procedure consists of a number of stages. It is important to consistently create the correct noise insulation of the car, for this separately the body elements are processed.

Noise insulation for car: hood protection

From a technical point of view, laying insulating material on the hood is a simple procedure, since in the design of the cover there are special notes for installing sheet material.

Noise insulation hood on cars

Many inexperienced car owners do not pay for this issue due attention, considering that protection is needed only in the area separating the engine compartment and the salon. Misconception is based on misunderstanding simple principle - The hood is a noise resonator. As the car accelerates from the lid, vibration and noise fluctuations are sent directly to windshieldIt is impossible to see insulation.

Noise insulation of auto with your own hands additionally helps to adequately estimate the state of the metal base, as well as restore it. Processing the hood is the simplest procedure, and the lid itself is rarely corrosion, but for other elements, the assessment is especially important for timely repairs.

Types of noise insulation of the car

At the heart of the question, how to properly do the noise insulation of the car, lies the definition of the main places for applying the material. If you lose at least one site, it will not be able to eliminate excessive noise.

For cars correctly apply isolation on:

• hood;
• doors;
• ceiling;
• arches;
• trunk;
• internal sites for fixing parts of the cabin.

Noise insulation ceiling car

Noise insulation is complete and partial. Right choice - It is a full processing, but in case of failure of individual components, it is allowed to perform the coating of body parts. Proper noise insulation of the car with your own hands will provide vibration insulation and heat conservation.

Determine the most suitable material is the task of the owner itself, we will help to navigate the variety of options.

Noise isolation of auto with your own hands, what materials are recommended:

• "Vomomat". It is made in the form of a foil layer, followed by applying resin. It is more often used for large areas, since it is easily fit, it is effective and inexpensive. They are treated by the floor, the loud of the trunk, the hood and arches. The base qualitatively suppresses sound fluctuations and vibration force. For gluing the base is necessarily cleaned and degreases, then the resin is melted with an industrial hairdryer;
• "Vibroplast". The advantage of the material is versatility, stacked on most surfaces, but more often on the roof, trunk and door. Sold with different thickness. The hairdryer is not a mandatory tool, but will improve the result;
• "Splin". Increased material porosity increases its sound-absorbing quality. An important disadvantage is the appearance of a violep by friction about plastic;
• "Bitoplast". If you pave this isolation, it is possible to eliminate the screens, and fill the slots between the elements of the cabin. By appearance And the feeling material is similar to the foam rubber, it easily occupies the gap and improves insulation in the places of connecting elements. Effectively applied in the area of \u200b\u200bcontact with plastic and glass;
• "Madelin". Special tissue with adhesive base, is designed to fill the design gaps and prevent noise from the vibration of electrical wiring.

"Spill" for car noise insulation

What noise isolation better

What a foundation may be required in a particular case, chooses the owner, taking into account the main tasks and problems in the car. The best sound insulation material shows professional categoryBut it is expensive and requires a clear fit of the elements. To prevent problems in the work process, it is recommended to learn the documentation for the car and carry out noise measurements, it will help to choose the material correctly.

The best sound insulation is a specially designed material for the automotive industry, as it protects against vibration, temperature differences, high humidity, etc. Construction noise insulation faster wear out, and with wetting loses most Properties. Modern materials include simultaneously insulation of heat, protect against vibration and sound.

It is important when choosing a protective agent to take into account temperature stability, as the hood next to the engine, and it is strongly heated.

The price directly depends on technical characteristics: Thickness, type of base and complexity of manufacture. The acquisition of a quality product will pay off in the form of driver's comfort and passengers. The material always prevents the penetration of noise and vibration, in summer, the insulation protects against heating, and in winter from cooling. For maximum protection from the outside world, 2-3 layers and the type of insulation will have to be laid.

Soundproofing Material for Car

Objectives noise insulation salon

Specialists among the advantages and problems of sound insulation are distinguished:

• absorption of sound from the motor;
• reduction of noise from gear shift;
• reduced the hearing of the road;
• removal of creak and other unwanted sounds from touching the interior layout;
• the creation of an independent heat zone in the cabin, in the summer is not so hot, and in winter warmer.

The suspension after installing the insulation almost ceases to be heard. The greater the quantity and quality obstacles to penetrate sound, the less noise penetrates into the salon. An integrated value of a car coating is important, holistic protection by 70-100% more efficiently than partial.

Materials for noise insulation machines

The coating process of insulation will require a different material for each part of the body. It differs depending on the level of noise, load on the basis and strength of vibration, so pick up the appropriate type, thickness and texture of the material.

Car Noise Isolation - Vibroplast M2

Instructions and reviews help identify the best materials for individual items:

• for the trunk, the arches, gender, the windscreen space and the main tunnel are used: "Vibroplast M2", "Visomat M2" or "MP" and BIMAST BOMB or Super;
• for the insulation of the door cavity, the "VIBROPLAST MP", as well as "Vibroplast M2", is used;
• on the floor, the porous isolation "Splane" or "vibroton" is stacked on top of the vibratory damping layer;
• "Bitoplast" or "Vibroplast M1" is recorded to the roof;
• plastic layout seal is better to perform "Bitoplast" and "Madelin". The only complexity of the procedure is the need to disassemble the cabin. The strips of 10-15 mm magnitude are laid on the joints of the joints;
• one of the largest sources of noise and vibration is a motor, for its insulation of one layer is not enough. The best results show the "sandwiche panels", where they are applied: a layer of "vibroplast", then "Splanna" and at the end of the PB-2 visomat;
• in the hood more often laid "isoton LM".

To achieve stable and good result At least 50-70% of the surface should be covered. It will not be possible to completely eliminate the noise, but noise isolation will help reduce the severity of sound for 3-4 dB.

The amount of materials depends on the car, its value is and how naked hand is, therefore less cropping. Averaged flow for different parts of the hull:

• for roofs, gender, hood, trunk and doors, you will need a minimum of 15 sheets of 53x75 cm or 6 m 2;
• on the arches and the partition of the operating space from the salon - 2 sheets of 1x1.25 m or 2.5 m;
• the floor and trunk is covered with 3 sheets of 1x1.25 m or 4 m 2;
• the roof will require a seal ("Bitoplast 10"). Just one sheet (1-2 m 2);
• the heat and sound insulation material ("isoton") is laid on the hood, shield and loud of the trunk. Buy 1 sheet (1-2 m 2);
• for sealing parts of the cabin, 0.5-1 m 2 will be required.

"Bitoplast" for car noise insulation

If you choose a budget material in 2 layers or 1 layer of high-quality coverage, it is necessary for the option with best characteristicsSince laying of the same material with low characteristics will slightly increase protection.

Correct car noise insulation with your own hands: The main stages of work

The technology for isolation of all elements is performed in a similar way. For complete processing, the car will need to spend 4 stages:

• Full bottom disassembly.
• Insulation sticker.
• Installation of antiskrip material.
• Build car and analysis of results.

The torpedo is not necessary, but it is desirable, it depends on the amount of time and complexity of installation, dismantling. The rest of the rest is completely disassembled. It is important to gently handle fasteners so that the retainers are not lost or broken. The naked body is cleaned of dirt and degreases.

Right noise insulation of the car do it yourself

An important task of isolation is reduced to maintaining the temperature under the hood. It is recommended to stack "Accent 10" (thermal insulation) and "Vibroplast Silver" (Soundproofing).

In order to competently make the base coverage, the following conditions will be observed:

• Dismantling. Now remove all the skin with the locks. If there are hinged and interfering elements, they are also dismantled.
• Preparation of the surface. Proper noise insulation of the car necessarily requires the purification of the base from dust and other garbage. A solvent is applied to the clean material for degreasing the surface, any liquid with acetone is suitable.
• Preparation of material. Isolation is fastened with glue, on pre-prepared patterns from thickened material. Sharp knife cut out the workpiece according to the lecture.
• Installation of noise insulation. After completion of the procurement phase, the protective coating is removed and is glued to the base. To increase the density of isolation adjacent, it is recommended to warm it with a construction hairdryer. The holes are covered with a composite material with foil. It is important to create a high-quality connection between the layers. It is recommended to apply each subsequent wave layer to 5 cm. Small pieces also warm the hair dryer.

It is important to preserve the moderate weight of the lid. If you use heavy materials or many layers, weighted design over time can cause leaks of shock absorbers and their drop under load.

If the factory isolation is a whole and good quality, it is better to leave it and strengthen. The coating is removed, the additional material is laid under the bottom, and from above the factory version. It is important when choosing to take into account the thickness of the standard layer. Sometimes the manufacturer does not fit sound insulation, then choose the fattest option.

Similarly, noise insulation on the car with your own hands for doors, and it may be somewhat different than the number of items for dismantling and the type of material.

Hood scramp with your own hands

In the door, insulation helps not only eliminate the noise, but also improve the purity of the sound of the speaker system. Based on the experience and reviews, there is a significant improvement in quality even with cheap materials.

The minimum option isolation is the use of the "vibroplast" from the Gold or Silver series. The sticker is carried out in the inside of the doors opposite the dynamics. Here the amount of material plays in favor of passengers, it is necessary to be based on the thickness of the wallet.

It is still worth considering the weight, with a strong weighting over time, the door can settle, and the loops are inconvenient and inefficient. It is important to find the right balance between the layer thickness and weighing. To install high-quality acoustics, it is recommended to apply 4 layers of insulation:

• Immediately the sound insulation from the inside.
• It is applied "splen" with a thickness of 4 to 8 mm thick.
• External insulation, under the door map. The layer is important for better sound quality. It is recommended to completely accumulate the technological holes, then the protection of the design from vibration increases.
• Soundproofing of door cards will help to avoid creak and outsiders. The thick "bitoplast" is optimally suitable. Additionally, handles and traction are seized through "Madelin".

If there are no speakers in some doors, the number of layers is recommended to reduce.

Noise insulation doors by car

Noise insulation of the roof and ceiling

The roof is insulated to eliminate external noise, preferably removes the noise of rain and "crickets". High isolation efficiency provides minimal hearing even during shower, will remain small blows As if from afar.

"Vibroplast" is used for isolation, it is better to buy the Gold or Silver series. It is important to pay attention to the weight, as the shift of the center of gravity will result in deterioration of manageability. Experts recommend to apply a "spilled" with a thickness of 4-8 mm, allowed to apply 2 layers. The thickness of the material should allow putting the trim to the initial place.

Healing isolation is important to reduce noise when driving along the canvas, as well as to reduce the hearingness of shocks of small stones. It is preferable to select better quality materials with vibration and sound insulation. Most often, "Bimast Bombers" is applied to the floor, it has optimal characteristics, but also a big weight. On top of the first layer they are applied "Splin" 4-8 mm.

When laying a thick "splash" appear inconvenience, it is more comfortable to use a small thickness of the material, but to apply it in 2 layers. Isolation necessarily covers the entire surface, it is important to eliminate all the gaps.

Considerable attention is paid to the areas of the salon in the place of the Arch, there are no noise here. Plots are recommended to be saved in 2 or 3 layers.

Noise insulation by floor auto

Check-insulation trunk and arches

Wheel niches are covered to increase the comfort of the cabin, with proper execution the number of noise will be minimal, and the audible sound can practically disappear when driving. Even winter spikes Do not worsen the comfort of passengers.

For insulation, the sequence is observed:

• Dismantling of the scenery. They should not be thrown out, the sings are quite well absorbed by the sound.
• The arch from the inside is cleaned of contamination.
• Stacked vibration insulation, "Vibroplast Gold" will suit. Positive will affect the state of metal and insulation with anti-gravel processing.
• Plastic liners are additionally insulated from the inside of the "vibroplast" and "bitoplast".
• Installation of plastic.

Now the stones will not be heard from the cabin.

Noise insulation car trunk

What to pay attention to the installation of noise insulation

There are small tricks that will help improve the result. Experts recommend:

• proper attention to be prepared. Cleaning and degreasing must be carried out, the result depends on the quality of these procedures;
• when working with the "vibroplast" and "bitoplast" it is recommended to use a construction hairdryer. With it, the protective layer is more dense, and the process of pasting is accelerated;
• the doorways and the ceiling are better to handle pieces of "vibroplast", causing its cross-crosswise;
• "Vibroplast" has a lot of weight, it is better to use it wisely to keep the ease of the car;
• to handle the doors, it is better to use a rolled "vibroplast", and to lay the parts "splen" on top;
• it is not recommended to isolate the bottom of the door and the recess for the tool in the trunk, since moisture accumulates here, the metal is faster in corrosion.

conclusions

A lot of materials have been developed for excumbeding the cabin, but the main thing is the right use of their use. Subject to the described measures, the sound penetration is 22-60%. When laying insulation, it is worth based on instructions for use. It is important to carry out all processes and neatly. During the day, perform the procedure is extremely difficult, you should have a sufficient amount of time.

The long trip in the car, accompanied by a great degree of noise, quickly wures the driver and lowers traffic safety. Driving a car, the driver has to be distracted by noise from external sources (Street) and on the noise published by the machine itself. After all, the car is inherently directly reproduced sound waves in a wide range of range.

In terms of its physical properties, the noise is divided into structural and air. Accordingly, the first type applies to solid metal, and the second by air.

Structural noise, if you take a car in an example, it occurs for the following reasons: the engine the engine through the fasteners elements sends a vibration on the body, the details of which make a more or less loud sound, depending on the intensity of vibration. In addition, structural noise can penetrate the car through the details of the suspension power aggregate to the body, exhaust system, transmission and running part. The suspension elements transmit vibration of such force that it makes shaking the entire body panel, which creates intensive noise. The exhaust system (silencer, pipes, resonator) leads to additional irritation, which brings its noise to the overall sound background. The reflected sound streams published under the influence of tires to the road surface are inserted into the state of noise level.

Air noise bursts into the salon of the car through the gaps of body elements (doorways, technological gaps of the front gender), as well as through glass machines. The thickness of glass and body panels directly affects the sound insulation of the car. In addition, aerodynamic noise is the lower than better design Engine, exhaust systems, transmission, doors and tire seals (height and tread pattern).

Extra Noise Elimination Methods

The methods of combating unnecessary noise are divided into two types: constructive and passive.

The constructive method implies the adjustment of power units and transmission nodes; proper selection elastic elements of suspension, power unit, chassis, transmissions and exhaust systems; Saving body gaps for giving it hardness; Sealing windows and doorways by progressive materials, etc.

Only after the constructive adjustment of the condition of the car, you can start a passive method, i.e., to the direct noise insulation of the car with your own hands. Therefore, we first understand the securing gaskets exhaust system, breaking fasteners of the elements of the cabin and knocking elements of the suspension. And then already "decorate" the car.

The passive method implies in the first stage the use of vibration, sound-absorbing, sealing and soundproofing materials, and on the second the use of protective housings.

This is the last stage in the cycle of creating a silent car, when all its design capabilities have already been exhausted.

It must be said that the effectiveness of the use of noise insolties to a greater extent depends on the initial noise of the car. The "quieter" car in the constructive level, the more high results you can achieve.

Materials and tools for car noise insulation

So, suppose you have already used all the design capabilities of your car. Now you need to produce direct noise insulation of the machine. If you are wrapped with patience, accuracy and good materials, you can implement this procedure yourself at home. There is nothing complicated in this. The main thing is clearly follow our instructions and do everything consistently.

Most motorists begins to get acquainted with the process of noise insulation when installing a better audio system. After all, without noise insulation, the reliable setting of the speakers is impossible. As a rule, it is with and the further process of eliminating foreign sounds begins in the rest of the machine.

Noise insulation of the car can be carried out completely or comprehensively. With a limited budget, it is better to choose a second option, since, making work in parts, you will improve your skills and warn potential errors. Start with, then do, and.

Before you start work, get the necessary materials and tools. From handy means you will need: a construction hairdryer (a hairdryer for drying hair is not suitable); A roller roller (for a more dense fit of a noise insulating material), scissors (for cutting w / and material), solvent (for example, White spirit for degreasing surfaces before applying materials).

This is a self-adhesive vibrarous material consisting of an embossed aluminum foil and a sticky polymer layer protected by anti-adhesion paper. List marking (5x5 cm squares) allows you to smoothly cut it into pieces of the desired size. The fabric does not absorb moisture and does not decompose under the influence of external conditions, has anti-corrosion and hermetic properties. Not requiring heating, easily superimposed on the purified surface of various reliefs. The mechanical loss coefficient is 0.25-0.35 conditions. units. With weighing 3 kg / m2. Thickness 2 mm.

Vibrating-eyed material having a multilayer structure, which consists of a facial aluminum foil, a bitumen and tagging composition protected by an anti-adhesion film. When mounting requires warming up to 40-50ºС. The structure of the material does not absorb moisture and does not decompose. It has high level Efficiency and recognized as the best vibrating absorbing material, especially for installing audio systems. The mechanical loss coefficient is 0.50 SL. units. Material thickness: 4.2 mm. It has weighing: 6 kg / m2.

The seal of the tissue base of black color. The material has a thickness of 1-1.5 mm with a sticky layer protected by an anti-adhesive gasket. The strength of the joint of the material and the treated surface is 3H / cm.

Used when processing slots between decorative parts of the cabin and car body; Gaps in and sealing air ducts.

Tuning experts advise first of all to start noisely insulate the car with the processing of the front and rear doors. This is done in order to reduce the external noise from the road and past passing machines, as well as improve the sound of speakers in the car. It works miracles, as even the most uncomfortable technique "Shumkov" can make the sound of music two times better.

The processing process of doors takes place in two stages: vibration isolation and noise insulation. For the minimum "Shumkov" doors, a vibrating absorbing material will be required, such as Vibroplast Silver orGOLD.. It is necessary to mount it on the inner surface of the door opposite the column. The greater the coverage zone by vibroplast, the better. If the metal is thin, then a larger amount of vibration-absorbing material will be required.

Be sure to take into account the weight of the materials when insulation, since if you reload the door, then with the loop time they will have to be changed.

It is reasonable to approach the goal. If, for example, you want to improve the sound of the audio system, you should use an integrated approach and noise insulation in 4 layers (!).

The first layer is pasted on the inside of the door (the one that is closer to the street), through special technological holes that categorically impossible to close. Materials can serve as a vibropolotor of a syliver or a small amount of vibroplast Gold (bimash bombs). The second layer is the superlated splented 4 mm over the vibroplast.

Next, you need to puncture the door outside, under the door cards, for which the audiophils are well suited. In this case, you need to completely close all the technological holes and take the door in which the speaker is located. After high-quality pasting, the vibrating rod will significantly increase the door stiffness, which will have a positive effect on the sound of the audio system. We glue the outer side of the vibroplast Silver or Gold, and on top we apply a splend for noise insulation.

The next step of noise insulation is to glue door cards. It is needed to eliminate the scripts that they publish. This can be done with the help of bitoplast - anti-slip and noise insulating material. The thicker layer of the bitoplast, the better. Pay attention to the presence of "crickets" inside the door. You can additionally attach the handles of Madeline.

The noise insulation of the rear doors is carried out by the same scheme as the front. If there is no built-in speaker in the door, then the number of reservoirs can be reduced and apply a cheaper vibration insulating material.

During the rain, heavy drops create a "drum fight" on the roof, which can be strongly distracting the driver. To eliminate outdoor noise, and removal of all "crickets" is carried out. The effect of it surpasses all the expectations, even in heavy rain to the ear of the driver, only remotely muted blows, almost invisible and not annoying.

Vibration isolation can be carried out using a Gold or Silver vibroplast. Do not get carried away with multi-layered, as the weight is important for the ceiling. After all, than it will be harder, the harder will drive the car, as the center of its severity will increase. Noise insulation can be carried out with a splented 4 or 8 mm, it is possible even by overlaying two layers.

The entire procedure of noise insulation should be taken carefully and compactly, having in mind that you will still have to install the ceiling trim.

Do not take care of the trunk or the fifth door (if you have a hatchback), because it is a mass bandwidth of various outsiders and noises. And in the event of a subwoofer, plays a primary role. Plush attention at the recess for the spare wheel, you need to be completely treated with vibraining material. In the same way, let all the trunk lining with the anti-slip material of the Bitoplast.

"Rechoming" the instrument panel is quite possible, it can even be turned into an additional so-called "acoustic shield".

So what is required for this? First, apply the vibroplast Silver on the flat zones of plastic. It will take it with him and remove excessive vibration. Vibration isolation exposed not only the details of the most dashboard, but also the heater body, air ducts and metal rigidity frame (if present). In general, all those elements that are capable of sharing sounds and vibrations when closing. For the second layer, the bitoplast 5-10 mm does not serve. It performs two functions: absorbs the noise emanating from the motor partition and prevents the stuffs of the panel elements about its body. After vibration and noise insulation, it is possible to reverse assembly, parallel to the sealing joints of the contacting elements with such materials such as Madeline and bioplastic 5 mm.

The question of the organization of noise insulation sooner or later faces each owner of foreign cars or domestic auto. Unfortunately, after driving bad roadsNone of the brand of the machine will endure and after some time the metal and plastic parts of the "iron horse" will begin to break out, which is in the cabin motor vehicle And annoying noises arise, "crickets" and other rattles. Such an atmosphere creates a lot of unpleasant sensations for the driver, which must be extremely vivid on the road. In addition, listening to music in good quality under such an accompaniment is also pretty dubious pleasure. In order not to overpay for expensive services for specialized car dealerships and get rid of unpleasant noise, spending the minimum of funds, it is enough to figure out how to make the car noise insulation with your own hands. Video - Instructions There are many instructions on this matter, the most visual and interesting will be given in the article.

And now in order. First of all, we'll figure it out that it is noise insulation (or in Schumka commoner) and what materials are used for it.

Materials for noise insulation cars

Shumka consists of several components, each of which should be made of a certain material.

Vibration Isolation

Foreign sounds appear due to vibrations, whose oscillation frequency is 20 Hz and more. To avoid such a hum, you need to purchase a vibration insulating material that is manufactured on a rubber basis. It resembles liquid rubber and from above can be covered with a metallized coating. Vibration isolation is good "extinguishing" noise, and you can lay it as whole sheets and stripes through the same interval. Such materials are sold by sheets with dimensions of 0.5x0.7 m or 0.5x1.2 m. In stores you can meet the following stamps: vibroplast, bimash, vibroplast, isoplast, as well as less popular materials: STP Splin noise insulation and TEAC. Consider some of them:

• Self-adhesive noise insulation Vibroplast Silver with metallized coating. It is flexible and is a convenient material. Equipped with marking (squares 5x5 cm), due to which it is possible to uncover the sheets of the required size. Suitable for flooring of the floor, doors, roofs, hood and trunk. Does not require heating. It costs from 100 to 300 rubles.

• Bimast bombs with aluminum foil coating. To work with the material it is necessary to heat up to 40 - 50 degrees, which is not very convenient, but the bimaster is characterized by the most high efficiency Compared to analogs. Suitable for arches of wheels, speakers, tunnel, cardanian Vala and zones over the silencer. Costs from 480 rubles.

Useful! Most of all vibrations comes from motor compartment, gender and wheeled arches. If you have a car audio set, you can make noise near the speakers, rear shelf or trunk lid. We can hear noise from the racks and the roof of the car, so you can hear the noise from the racks and the roofs, so in these places you can use a cheaper material.

The vibrating material is superimposed first, after it follows the noise insulation.

Noise insulation

The sound absorber is made of soft porous materials designed to absorb sound waves, which are coming outside. Most often, drivers acquire the material for the car's noise insulation of the following companies:

• Bitoplast 5. This material performs two functions at once - noise absorption and seal, thanks to which it is not necessary to buy an additionally anti-scrip. It eliminates the rattles and screens in the car. This material made of polyurethane foam with a protective anti-adhesive layer is manufactured. In addition, biplast retains its properties even at very low temperatures (up to -50 degrees). It costs about 360 rubles.

• Accent 10, performing only sound-absorbing function. This material made of polyurethane foam covered with a metallized film. Allows you to get rid of 90% of noise. Accent 10 is adapted to low temperatures (up to -40 degrees), as well as it is not deformed when heated to +100 degrees. Most often used to handle the hood cover, trunk and partitions of the engine compartment. It is also about 350-390 rubles.

Important! Do not confuse noise and sound absorbers with soundproof materials, as they are fundamentally different from each other with their properties and composition.

If possible, it is better to combine the shine of different composition. For example, one material can be glued on the outer panel of the car door, and the inner is different. When calculating the engine compartment or wheeled arches, different materials can be stacked right on each other. The fact is that various noise insulation hold different frequency ranges, so thanks to such tricks you will achieve a better result.

Another secret. As a noise absorber, conventional building materials can be used. For example, noise insulation of Testsound. It is an order of magnitude cheaper and used for both homes or apartments and cars. Another such wagon is Gerlen (noise insulation).

There is also a liquid Shumka. It is most often used for outdoor work. Such materials like liquid noise insulation of the arches of the wheels has excellent anti-corrosion properties. The composition of this material may be aerosol or painted type (for applying with a brush or spatula). Mastic liquid noise insulation is resistant to reagents and other aggressive media.

Gasket material

Another stuff, about buying which should be thought, before making noise insulation with your own hands - this is a gasket (anti-graded) material. It is used to get rid of such noiseissued when contacting metal parts of the machine. Previously, its analogue served plasticine, foam rubber, and so on, in general, everything that can be found at home. Today there are specialized anti-scaffolds, for example, "Madelin". This decorative material on a tissue-based thickness of about 1-1.5 mm is equipped with a glue layer and a protective gasket with anti-adhesion properties. Most often Madeline is used to seal the gaps between the decorative parts of the cabin, the body of the car, air ducts, or in the dashboard. Costs about 750 rubles.

If you purchased a universal noise absorbing material, then it is not necessary to spend on the seal. Experts are still recommended to acquire all components separately. The fact is that if you buy a universal coating, then work it will take less, but the car will greatly add in weight.

Some motorists are "with experience" prefer to combine various compositions of materials. If you feel about their number, then be sure to consider that the number of one or another material directly depends on the selected technology of noise insulation (whether it is a two-or three-layer "sandwich").

If you have decided on what materials for noise insulation of the car do it yourself to purchase, it's time to go to the preparatory work.

Preparation for noise insulation

First of all, it is necessary to prepare the following tools (in addition to vibro, noise insulation and sealing):

• construction hairdryer (the usual home in this situation is not suitable);
• a roller roller (with him you are faster and high quality glove the material to the surfaces of the car);
• scissors;
• stationery knife (for piercing bubbles);
• the solvent or degreaser (they will need to handle the surface, and the usual "White Spirit" is suitable).

After that, make dismantling of all parts, free the area and clean the surface from dirt and dust. The room temperature during operation should be not lower than + 18 + 20 degrees. If all the conditions are observed, you can start styling Shumkov.

The first is superimposed by vibration insulation. If it involves thermal processing, then warm it with a construction hairdryer. When laying the vibra, it is not enough to attach it to the surface, it needs to be well done by roller in all available places Until those time until the foil texture disappears. If the material is poorly chopped, then over time it will begin to flap. Please note that the anti-corrosion properties of the vibration will only have if there are no bubbles under it, otherwise moisture will begin to accumulate in these places. Therefore, use the stationery knife, carefully spinning them. In the joints of the joint, the vibration insulation is better glued to join. The vibra is not necessary to apply whole pieces.

But the Shumkov is better to impose as large as possible slices and in no case cut it on the strips, it will reduce the effect of noise insulation to almost zero. In addition, individual small pieces are simply dismissed over time. It is best to draw on a roll with a shine of a kind of pattern in the sizes of the surface to which you are going to glue it. After that, cut the template and, slowly pulling off the protective film from it, begin to sequentially glue the material. So, step by step you can maximally fix noise insulation. There should be no bubbles in this case, so it's good to walk on the material. If you are still glue insulation with pieces, then be sure to follow each piece firmly adjacent to the neighboring, without leaving no lasers.

When working with the seal, there are no special subtleties, the main thing is to ensure that the material does not stick out the material on the ends.

Now consider much most often noise insulation.

Noise insulation hood

With noise insulation, the hood cover is worth considering its weight, as if you drown this item too much, then the shock absorbers will sweep soon. Therefore, it is better to use a light vibra for this area, for example, Vibroplast Silver. It is also worth considering that noise insulation of the hood itself is not done to get rid of the noise published by the engine. In fact, it is necessary for its insulation. As a heater, you can choose focus 10, which will retain heat and will not change its properties from high temperatures.

Important! The factory thermal insulation does not need to be thrown out, since the new cannot be its full replacement.

Some cars are not equipped with factory shock hood, in this case use the fattest material from possible.

Noise insulation doors

When processing doors, it is also worth considering the weight of the materials if they are too heavy, then you risk riding a loop. Therefore, it is important to understand why you need noise insulation in these areas. If you want to improve the sound, then " small blood"Do not do and have to glue at least 4 layers of Shumkov. For more "modest" requests, only vibra will be enough, which is applied to the inside of the door opposite the speakers. It is also worth noting that than metal thinner, the more material you need.

Before working the door, you need to disassemble, remove the skin and process the solvent surface. In the heat of work, do not forget to leave a free space for cables, thrust and other wires located in the door.

First of all, it is necessary to process the inner part of the doors with vibration insulation, for this you can use the Vibroplast Silver. In places behind the speakers will suit Bimast Bomb. The second layer is a shine thick about 4-8 mm. After that, outer insulation is performed. The material is glued under the door cards, after which they are glued by the anti-scrip.

Attention! The video contains elements of abnormative vocabulary.

Noise insulation of wheeled arches and trunk

Niche for spare parts should be fully attached to the vibro, the same applies to the plastic trunk plating.

Noise insulation of the arches of the wheels with their own hands will save you from the noise of the roadway, especially in winter timeWhen a hips is used. For processing wheel niches You must first remove the standard plastic shoes (but not throw them out), clean the parts from dirt and dust and process the free surface with a vibration insulator. The sneakers themselves can also be covered with material.

Attention! The video contains elements of abnormative vocabulary.

Roof insulation

If you want to get rid of the sounds of drumming on the roof of the rain, then definitely get the roof time of your car. Good noise insulation will also make rid of "crickets".

When processing the ceiling, take into account its weight if it is dried strongly, the controllability of the vehicle will noticeably deteriorate. Shumka for this area is worth choosing a thickness of no more than 8 mm. Each material is stacked one layer. Before work, calculate all the values \u200b\u200bto install the ceiling trim in your place without problems.

Floor insulation

In addition to the wheels, while driving on the road, the noise is also the floor of the car, and pebbles, knocking on the bottom, bring a lot of unpleasant sensations. For this area, it is better to use the highest quality materials, for example, bimash bombs (although it is a heavy vibration, but its characteristics are the best). The top layer is superimposed with a layer of a thickness of 4-8 mm.

Make sure that there are no joints between the sheets of the materials, and try to attach as much area as possible, it is best to just with one sheet. The same goes and noise insulation of the floor of the car.

After applying all the components, leave the car for 12 hours so that all adhesive bases "grab" well.

In custody

Of course, Shumkov can also be installed in a specialized cabin, such as Olympus cars noise insulation, but such services will cost it somehow. If you only sat down behind the wheel, then it is better to contact the specialists, but for the "experienced" motorists is a waste of money. In addition, although it is recommended to be noise insulation immediately on all cars, but in fact, even if you do everything in stages, it will not affect the noise level. If the car is noise insulation with your own hands, the video of which is recommended to look at work before starting work, does not scare you, then you can significantly save.

Maria Sobolev

Noise insulation of the car. Do it yourself?

For a car owner, a lot of time spent driving of its car, noise insulation - do not at all, but an urgent need. Why get rid of noise, how you need to know about the choice of materials and how to cope with outsiders in the cabin itself - recommendations of experienced masters.

These harmful noise

The noise in the cabin is annoying both the driver and passengers. But besides discomfort, foreign sounds are also dangerous - they provoke the fatigue of the one who is driving, reduce the concentration of attention, visual sharpness.

Excessive noises can increase pressure, cause angina, unwanted nervousness. Driver's health problems are fraught with unpleasant situations on the road - traffic accidents and accidents.

Many in the nature of their activities are carried out in the cabin almost all day, and if there is constantly noisy? Naturally, the car noise isolation is simply necessary.

Especially considering the quality of roads, often leading not only to the appearance of noise, but also to damage to the car, sometimes requiring body repair.

Noise There are external (street) and internal, emanating from the machine itself.

Noise sources of car:

• primary - from the engine, transmission, tires, from air flow when driving auto (aerodynamic);

• secondary - from metal panels of body, plastic parts, including dashboard, and also from windows.

Noise insulation of the car can be complete (complex) and partial.

The full option is a multi-layer processing of all body elements (doors, gender, ceiling, luggage compartment, wheel arches, engine shield), as well as cabin panels.

A partial option - when noise insulation is performed on some elements of the body, most susceptible to different vibrations.

Important: Before carrying out noise insulation of the car, its structural disadvantages are eliminated - exhaust system, transmission, chassis, fastening of the interior elements.

Already after the construction "finishing" applies noise insulation of cars using special materials. On the notes of the novice driver - their effectiveness depends on the initial extent of the noise of the machine.

Types of insulating materials

Noise isolation of your car requires the use of high-quality, proven materials. Therefore, the goods are dubious, but attractive for the price, does not fit.

You need to choose in specialized stores, where is a big range, quality assurance and consultation of specialists. Noise insulation is a responsible process, and let it best be helped by a delivis advice.

Selection of desired materials different types Allows to get a goal - get a quiet, comfortable car.

The technological process of asshuming auto includes a complex application of several layers of various purposes.

1. VibrationRevolators (vibration-pitchers) - the first layer, the vibrations are quenched by reducing the amplitude of the oscillations of metal or plastic panels, reduce the level of structural noise.

Produced on the basis of foamed rubber, bitumen or butyl mastic. Materials with a higher mechanical loss coefficient (CMP) are harder, thicker and will better absorb vibrations.

All vibration-hammer has a glue assembly layer. Protect body from corrosion sealing properties of these materials.

Bimasti - A special group having two layers of vibration absorption - bituminous and mastic. Possess the highest indicators of the CMP. These include:

What are treated: Arches of wheels, shield front, zone over silencer, cardan shaft, tunnel.

Vibroplasts - A group of materials characterized by elasticity is a self-adhesive polymer composition with an aluminum foil. Varieties: M1 - 1.5 mm thick, m2 (2.3 mm), Silver (2 mm) and Gold (2.3 mm).

• Vibroplast Silver - New material, used for processing plastic surfaces, not needed at mounting.

• Vibroplast GOLD. - Elastic, does not require warming up, used for metal processing.

Processing Places: Paul salon, roof, doors, body sidewalls, flap Front side of the cabin, hood cover and trunk.

Visomat PB - self-adhesive bituminous material of black. The moisture does not absorb, it does not decompose, requires warming up to 40-50 degrees. Varieties: PB-2, PB-3.5.

Visomat MP. - bituminous material, coated with aluminum foil, thickness - 2.7 mm, the heating during installation is necessary.

2. Noise insulators - They are applied by the second layer, they absorb the sound waves of the air environment, removing different noises.

Accent - One of the main materials of the "StandardsPlast" series. A lightweight, convenient for use, thanks to the foil film protects against moisture, has sound express and thermal insulation qualities. Material thickness - 8, 10 and 15 mm.

Processing zones : Hood and trunk cover, motor compartment partition.

Bitoplast - A high-quality seal, possesses anti-graded properties, due to its open structure, it perfectly absorbs noise. Thick is 5 and 10 mm. Has a glue layer.

Biplast - Improved Bitoplast version: acts as a noise absorber, seal, vibration. The material is flexible, has a self-adhesive layer, a thickness of 5 and 10 mm. Suitable for processing plastic panels.

Isoton - Popular material in the category "StandardsPlast", similar to the characteristics of the accent, has a thickness of 10 and 20 mm, has a glue layer.

3. Sound -, heat insulators - reflect sound and thermal waves. These materials are available at a price, keep warm. They are used on top of the noise insulating layer or on the outer surfaces of the body.

Splen - material with sound and heat insulating properties, elastic, 4 and 8 mm thick. Salon, plated spilled, is well kept warm.

Processing zones: Shield front from the cabin, the arches of the wheels, doors.

Vibroton - Combined Material: Bituminous composition and Polystoinoethylene. Does not absorb moisture, does not decompose. Excellent sound insulation and thermal insulation properties.

4. Stripping (anti-slip) materials - eliminate sounds arising from the contact of metal or plastic parts of the car. Requirements for materials: durability, resistance, ease of use (sizing hard-to-reach places).

Madelin - Dense tissue material with adhesive layer. The decorative view allows you to use it to handle the joints between the panels. Presented by two colors: black and gray. They often sample joints in the dashboard, and Bitoplast apply between the shelves of the doors and the door itself.

5. Liquid compositions of Shvi - To conduct outdoor treatment of the car body, leafy noise insulating materials are not suitable (poorly carry an aggressive external environment). Therefore, liquid mastic compositions are used, which are treated with arched space and the bottom of the car. There are also anti-corrosion properties.

Dinitol 479. - the so-called "liquid sneakers" is a protective composition based on synthetic rubber. Functions - Anticorrosive for the bottom, noise insulation and anti-gravine coating.

Noise insulation doodle with your own hands

Before starting work, you need to prepare all the tools that will be needed in the process of car hoisp.

Create a hair dryer (thermal gun), knife and sharp scissors, a roller roller, a degreaser (White spirit), a meter line, a roulette, marker.

Technology of work:

• door dismantling, remove the external trim. You can not remove the windows device and the door opening mechanism;

• clear the door from factory noise insulation and anticorrosion processing, degrease the surface;

• pleise the vibration-ham (Gold vibratinglast) inner side of the door, carefully rolling the roller. And the more the coating area will be, the better the result;

• if the quality of the sound of the speaker is important to you, then you can stick a circle from the bitoplast;

• barrow on inner side All technological holes, checking how the door opening mechanism and windows work. A lot of vibroplast glue no reason - the mass will increase;

• on the surface of the door paste accent or bitoplast, to do the slits under all the mechanisms;

• on the trim in order to reduce the vibrations to glue pieces of vibration-pulp, the surface is saved by the Bitoplast, leaving the reserve at the edges of several centimeters, which will serve as an anti-slip;

• joints to smoke sealant (madeline) to eliminate possible knocks;

• install the trim back.

Noise insulation with your own hands:

• remove all in the cabin: auto seat, trim, panel, rugs;

• remove the whole garbage from the floor, degrease the surface;

• make all the necessary patterns from paper, after which make patterns from noise insulating material;

• the bottom to handle the autocor;

• apply the first layer - vibration-pit, then the second layer is noise insulation. Technological holes and wiring do not stick;

• machine cabin.

Ceiling noise insulation

The technology of work is identical to the one that is used when floor insulation. Sequencing:

• remove the ceiling. Removing the trim, follow the instructions to damage anything, it is better to invite someone to help, since it is difficult to make it difficult for one hands;

• remove the factory heat insulation, clean the surface, degrease it;

• apply a layer of vibration insulation (better than the Gold vibroplast), then noise insulation (accent, bitoplast). It is better to cover about 70% of the ceiling area of \u200b\u200bthe car (all places between rigidity);

• set the trim back, it should not be stolen (it will not hold on or break). You can cry the edges of Madelin if there are gaps.

Ceiling noise insulation brings a tangible effect - even the sounds of heavy rain will be heard muted, without delivering discomfort.